Why we don’t call
ourselves a “green” company
Despite
the fact that two-thirds of our textiles are made up of
mohair, silk, linen, cotton and wool — arguably natural
or “green” materials — we feel it would be disingenuous
to label ourselves as “green.” Even if 100% of our textiles
were natural, we could not claim to be “green.” That’s
because we play a part in a larger process, a process
we can’t control at
every
step along the way. Do the cotton farmers who supply us
practice sustainable agricultural techniques? Do the ranchers
shear their sheep in the most humane way? We can’t be
certain. Likewise, we can’t eliminate the carbon footprint
left by shipping. While 99 percent of our beautiful mohair
yarns are made out of natural, compostable fibers, transporting
this product from Holland burns fuel, no matter how we
do it. The truth is that “green” is a relative term. Consider
bamboo, for example. It’s often treated with so many chemicals
during the manufacturing process that by the time the
finished product gets into your home or office, it’s likely
to be laden with chemicals — including formaldehyde. Should
that bamboo product be called “green”? Leather is another
case in point. It may be natural, but the large expanses
of land needed to raise cattle accelerate the deforestation
of the planet. Moreover, cattle herds emit massive amounts
of methane gas, a far more potent greenhouse gas than
CO2. That said, many of us reading this are wearing leather
shoes — a personal choice.
Natural fibers and
responsible textile manufacturing
Wool,
cotton, silk, mohair and linen — mainstays of the Joseph
Noble textile collection — are naturally renewable, recyclable
and biodegradable. Bury any of them in loose moist soil,
and they will return to the earth within five years. The
lion’s share of our textiles is not only made from these
natural fibers but also manufactured under ecologically
responsible circumstances. For example, our Pure Wool
is produced in an environmentally friendly Scottish mill,
using only natural gas with a low flame emission during
its processing. The mill’s Ciba dyes are free of heavy
metals, the chemicals used are non-hazardous and waste
materials are separated for recycling. The effluent from
the finisher is so nontoxic that it is safely discharged
into the river Tweed, one of Scotland’s finest salmon-fishing
rivers. Our Pure Silk is loom state, with no banned chemicals
or dye stuffs used in any of the processing. Both the
warp and weft are 100 percent natural silk. After degumming
with Marseille soap, the silk is colored with Azofree
dyes, using eco-sensitive production procedures. Many
of our mills make large energy- and water-conservation
investments. For example, our mills in Switzerland are
equipped with heat-recycling systems that continually
reduce CO2 output to comply with Kyoto Protocol standards.
All chemicals used fall below existing risk-value norms.
Additional safeguards will be considered for adoption
as they become available.
PVC vs. polyurethane vs. leather
Our
Technology Leathers™ are made from a variety of
materials, including PVC and polyurethane. We use them
because they provide durability, easy maintenance and
the aesthetic qualities sought by many of our customers.
PVC is the subject of considerable debate, because when
burned, it releases dioxin, an environmentally hazardous
gas. Despite the controversy, PVC pipe is widely used
in construction. In fact, toys are often made with PVC.
We acknowledge the validity of concerns about PVC. On
the other hand, we recognize that when it’s used wisely
and responsibly, PVC can outlast and outperform other
products in the marketplace. (Picture a restaurant banquette
with red wine spills, a toddler’s damp diapers on a chair,
a wet dog on a sofa.) Since PVC outsurvives most alternatives
(especially leather) and needs replacing far less often,
a case could be made for calling it responsible or sustainable.
It’s a complicated issue, one we invite you to learn more
about on the Environmental Protection Agency Web site
at www.epa.gov. Polyurethane is often seen as a more environmentally
friendly alternative to PVC, and we use it extensively
for many of our products. Unfortunately, it can’t be considered
as a universal substitute, because polyurethane is five
times more expensive than PVC, making it too costly for
many uses. We continue to actively work with each of our
suppliers to improve the environmental impact of our PVC
and polyurethane products.
The “greening” of Joseph Noble,
a continuing process
Recent
research has shown that most Americans think of themselves
as custodians of the land and have a strong desire to
manage natural resources to improve the soil, water and
native vegetation. We share that viewpoint and in the
sense of obligation that goes with it. We also recognize,
and we hope our customers do too, that solving our environmental
challenges is an evolutionary process. We are “greener”
today than we were five years ago, and we will be “greener”
tomorrow than we are right now. Each year, we promise
to learn more and do more. We also promise to be as honest
about our limitations as we are about our accomplishments.
Lastly, we promise to practice, not to preach. Our job
is not to prescribe behavior for others but to be responsible
for our own. Stay tuned.