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Why we don’t call ourselves a “green” company
Despite
the fact that two-thirds of our textiles are made up of
mohair, silk, linen, cotton and wool — arguably natural
or “green” materials — we feel it would be disingenuous
to label ourselves as “green.” Even if 100% of our textiles
were natural, we could not claim to be “green.” That’s because
we play a part in a larger process, a process we can’t control
at every
step along the way. Do the cotton farmers who supply us
practice sustainable agricultural techniques? Do the ranchers
shear their sheep in the most humane way? We can’t be certain.
Likewise, we can’t eliminate the carbon footprint left by
shipping. While 99 percent of our beautiful mohair yarns
are made out of natural, compostable fibers, transporting
this product from Holland burns fuel, no matter how we do
it. The truth is that “green” is a relative term. Consider
bamboo, for example. It’s often treated with so many chemicals
during the manufacturing process that by the time the finished
product gets into your home or office, it’s likely to be
laden with chemicals — including formaldehyde. Should that
bamboo product be called “green”? Leather is another case
in point. It may be natural, but the large expanses of land
needed to raise cattle accelerate the deforestation of the
planet. Moreover, cattle herds emit massive amounts of methane
gas, a far more potent greenhouse gas than CO2. That said,
many of us reading this are wearing leather shoes — a personal
choice.
Natural fibers and
responsible textile manufacturing
Wool,
cotton, silk, mohair and linen — mainstays of the Joseph
Noble textile collection — are naturally renewable, recyclable
and biodegradable. Bury any of them in loose moist soil,
and they will return to the earth within five years. The
lion’s share of our textiles is not only made from these
natural fibers but also manufactured under ecologically
responsible circumstances. For example, our Pure Wool is
produced in an environmentally friendly Scottish mill, using
only natural gas with a low flame emission during its processing.
The mill’s Ciba dyes are free of heavy metals, the chemicals
used are non-hazardous and waste materials are separated
for recycling. The effluent from the finisher is so nontoxic
that it is safely discharged into the river Tweed, one of
Scotland’s finest salmon-fishing rivers. Our Pure Silk is
loom state, with no banned chemicals or dye stuffs used
in any of the processing. Both the warp and weft are 100
percent natural silk. After degumming with Marseille soap,
the silk is colored with Azofree dyes, using eco-sensitive
production procedures. Many of our mills make large energy-
and water-conservation investments. For example, our mills
in Switzerland are equipped with heat-recycling systems
that continually reduce CO2 output to comply with Kyoto
Protocol standards. All chemicals used fall below existing
risk-value norms. Additional safeguards will be considered
for adoption as they become available.
PVC vs. polyurethane vs. leather
Our
technology leathers are made from a variety of materials,
including PVC and polyurethane. We use them because they
provide durability, easy maintenance and the aesthetic qualities
sought by many of our customers. PVC is the subject of considerable
debate, because when burned, it releases dioxin, an environmentally
hazardous gas. Despite the controversy, PVC pipe is widely
used in construction. In fact, toys are often made with
PVC. We acknowledge the validity of concerns about PVC.
On the other hand, we recognize that when it’s used wisely
and responsibly, PVC can outlast and outperform other products
in the marketplace. (Picture a restaurant banquette with
red wine spills, a toddler’s damp diapers on a chair, a
wet dog on a sofa.) Since PVC outsurvives most alternatives
(especially leather) and needs replacing far less often,
a case could be made for calling it responsible or sustainable.
It’s a complicated issue, one we invite you to learn more
about on the Environmental Protection Agency Web site at
www.epa.gov. Polyurethane is often seen as a more environmentally
friendly alternative to PVC, and we use it extensively for
many of our products. Unfortunately, it can’t be considered
as a universal substitute, because polyurethane is five
times more expensive than PVC, making it too costly for
many uses. We continue to actively work with each of our
suppliers to improve the environmental impact of our PVC
and polyurethane products.
The “greening” of Joseph Noble,
a continuing process
Recent
research has shown that most Americans think of themselves
as custodians of the land and have a strong desire to manage
natural resources to improve the soil, water and native
vegetation. We share that in viewpoint and in the sense
of obligation that goes with it. We also recognize, and
we hope our customers do too, that solving our environmental
challenges is an evolutionary process. We are “greener”
today than we were five years ago, and we will be “greener”
tomorrow than we are right now. Each year, we promise to
learn more and do more. We also promise to be as honest
about our limitations as we are about our accomplishments.
Lastly, we promise to practice, not to preach. Our job is
not to prescribe behavior for others but to be responsible
for our own. Stay tuned.
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